Great OPTION: Magnetic tipped nut drivers, especially for driving the hundreds of 1/4" screws into Williams playfields.Really makes quick work of standard screws. OPTIONAL: low torque or torque controlled electric screwdriver and 1/4" bit.OPTIONAL: 1/8" nut driver - used for microswitch nuts in some Sega ball troughs.1/4" nut driver - the most common size, used for hex head screws and hex posts.Needle nose pliers - a mini-pliers set is handy.5/16" is used for Stern (DE/Sega) head latches if the game's tool can't be found. You'll probably build your toolset as you go, but the following list is a general set that can accomplish many pinball repairs. 100 Molex header pins (the "break to size" style is the most versatile) Replacement leaf blades and gold flashed contacts.A long lever micro-switch is a generic replacement that you can cut/form to the shape you need. Replacement switch blades and high voltage contacts. Helps with heat in the head as well as they are usually about 50% duty cycle. 455 "Blinker" type bulbs for backglass highlights.Bulbs/Lamps #44/47, #555, and #89 are very common types.Typical sizes for pinball machines are 1.25 inches and 20mm. Fuses are also designed as "fast blow" or "slow blow"/"time delayed blow". Installing a fuse rated higher than spec may cause some other part of the game circuitry to become the weakest link, and damage parts of the game that the fuse is designed to protect.įuses are rated in terms of voltage and most importantly amps. If you replace a fuse, and it blows again, then you can be sure that something has gone awry.Īlways install fuses at the rating specified for your game. Locked on coils or flashers, direct shorts of power to ground, and many other reasons will cause a fuse to blow. When too much current is drawn through the circuit, the fuse should be the first part of the circuit to fail.Īlthough fuses sometimes fail due to old age or vibration, fuses usually fail for a reason. They are designed to be the "weakest link" in the circuit. Obviously, this is NOT recommended.įuses are designed into your game's electrical circuitry to protect the circuits from damage should some component fail and begin to draw too much electrical current. This section of PinWiki hosts general information common to all/most pinball machines. 44.10 Cleaning and Adjusting Rollover Switches.43 How to Properly File Switch Contacts.41 Counterfeit Integrated Circuits & Blacktopped Parts.27.1 Diode and Switch Matrix Wiring Orientation on a Microswitch.26 Replacing obsolete/hard to find parts.23 Testing a Transistor, Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) or Field Effect Transistor (FET).22.2 Bridge Rectifier Testing Procedure.22.1 General Information About Bridge Rectifiers.21 How coils, flashers, and motors are turned on.13 DIP (Dual In-line Package) Pin Numbering Convention.11.4 Desoldering Printed Circuit Board Through Hole Components.11.3.3 Using an old Socket to Align SIPs and Headers.11.3.2 Repairing traces or creating a "solder stitch".11.3.1 Bending Discrete Through-hole Components.11.3 Soldering on Printed Circuit Boards.6 Repairing Wiring Damaged by IDC Connectors.4.11 Building a flexible power supply for bench testing PCBs.
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